If you're just getting started with Tooth Gems, you've probably asked yourself one question more than any other: "What size crystals should I buy?"
In a perfect world, you'd have every size ready for every client. But when you're first building your inventory, that isn't always realistic.
So let's talk about the Tooth Gem crystal sizes I actually use, which ones I couldn't live without, and where I'd recommend every new Tooth Gem Tech starts.
How Tooth Gem Crystal Sizes Work
Before we dive into each size, it helps to understand how crystal sizing works.
Tooth Gem crystals are sized using SS measurements, which stands for Stone Size. This is the industry standard used to describe the diameter of a crystal in millimeters.
For round Tooth Gems, I recommend staying within the SS2 (1.2 to 1.3 mm) through SS9 (2.5 to 2.6 mm) range.
The two crystal brands I recommend for Tooth Gems are Preciosa and Swarovski. One thing to keep in mind is that not every color is available in every size. To make shopping easier, I only stock colors that are available across the full recommended Tooth Gem size range. That way, when your client falls in love with a color, you'll have it in the size they want too.

How I Use Each Tooth Gem Crystal Size
SS2 (1.2 to 1.3 mm)
Being the smallest crystal, an SS2 is nearly unnoticeable on its own. Personally, I don’t normally recommend this size as a standalone Tooth Gem.
Where it really shines is in custom designs like the Outline, Disco Ball, or other intricate looks. It creates a seamless, super sparkly effect that simply isn't possible with larger crystals.
Most of my designs use at least fifteen SS2s at a time, and I've created sets using over sixty. If you enjoy creating detailed custom work, this is the size you'll want plenty of.
SS3 (1.35 to 1.4 mm)
I reach for SS3 when a client wants a super duper subtle sparkle.
It looks beautiful tucked into the corner of a central incisor or used as an accent alongside other gems. For example, you could pair it with an 18k Gold Moon for a constellation inspired look or stacking it beneath a Marquise crystal to create a hanging chandelier effect.
I also use SS3s for detailed designs that need just a little more presence than an SS2.
SS4 (1.5 to 1.6 mm)
SS4 is one of my top three most requested sizes.
It is perfect for clients who want a subtle standalone sparkle while still making a statement. It also works beautifully in simple designs like double and triple stacks for an elegant, extra sparkly look.
This is also my favorite size to pair with Marquise crystals when creating dainty Butterfly Tooth Gems. You can see an example of this combination in my Butterfly Kit.
SS5 (1.7 to 1.8 mm)
This is it. My number one most requested size. If I had to recommend one crystal size, it would be SS5.
It offers the perfect amount of sparkle without feeling too subtle or too bold. It looks beautiful on almost every tooth size and works for almost every client.
I like to call it the Goldilocks of Tooth Gems. Not too flashy. Not too subtle. It's just right.
I use SS5s in simple stacks, paired with Navette crystals for Butterfly designs, and in countless everyday applications. If you'd like to compare a Navette with an SS5 to a Marquise with an SS4, take a look at the Butterfly Kit.
SS6 (1.9 to 2.0 mm)
Rounding out my top three is SS6.
This size is perfect for clients who want just a little more sparkle without stepping into the larger crystal sizes. It is still small enough for simple designs like stacks while giving clients a brighter, more noticeable sparkle.
SS6 is absolutely one of my must have sizes.
SS7 (2.1 to 2.2 mm)
I most often use SS7 on larger smiles or larger teeth.
It looks especially nice on canines, which tend to have more surface area than other teeth. It is also a great option for clients who love a bolder look and want their Tooth Gem to stand out.
SS8 (2.3 to 2.4 mm)
Now we're getting into the larger crystals that I use less often.
On smaller teeth, SS8 can start to look a little chunky, so I usually reserve it for clients with larger teeth.
It is probably my least requested size, but I still recommend keeping some in your inventory because every now and then it is exactly what a client is looking for.
SS9 (2.5 to 2.6 mm)
I sometimes joke that SS9 is for the boys.
Men generally have larger teeth, so an SS9 on a man's canine can often look similar to an SS6 on a woman's canine.
Because of its size, I reserve this crystal for larger teeth where it looks balanced and intentional. Most often, this is the size requested by my male clients.

Which Tooth Gem Crystal Sizes Should Every Beginner Own?
If I were starting over today, these are the sizes I'd buy first:
- SS4
- SS5
- SS6
These three sizes cover the majority of consultations and are the ones I reach for most often.
Next, I would add SS2 so you're ready for larger custom designs and intricate sets.
From there, round out your inventory with SS3, SS7, SS8, and SS9 so you're prepared for every smile that walks through your door.
If you're building your inventory from scratch, I created a Starter Crystal Bundle with the exact four sizes I recommend most often: SS2, SS4, SS5, and SS6.
How to Choose the Right Tooth Gem Size
The best way to choose a Tooth Gem size is to try them on.
A Tooth Gem Size Guide is one of the most valuable consultation tools you can own. It allows clients to hold each size up to their smile and instantly see what fits the look they're going for.
It can also be difficult to choose a size based on inspiration photos online. You might see a set you love that uses SS5 crystals, but those crystals were chosen based on that person's smile. On one client an SS5 may look delicate, while on another it could look much bolder.
The goal isn't to copy someone else's smile. It's to create the perfect look for your client's smile.

The Final Verdict
The best Tooth Gem size is the one that fits your client's smile. Every tooth is different, which means every consultation should be a little different too.
Start with a good variety of sizes, use a Size Guide during every consultation, and let your client's anatomy guide the final decision.
If you're just getting started, don't overthink it. Build your collection one step at a time, and focus on the sizes you'll actually use. A handful of versatile crystals can take you far! That's exactly why I put together the Starter Crystal Bundle, so you can start with confidence.
As your inventory grows, the Size Bundle is an easy way to stock up on your most used crystal sizes. And if you're ready for every size and every color, the Every Crystal Bundle has you covered too.
As always, if you ever have questions, my DMs are open. I love helping techs build confidence one crystal at a time.
Xoxo,
Katana