There are certain Tooth Gem designs, like the Chandelier and the Butterfly, that I consider the hand and finger tattoos of the Tooth Gem world. They are stunning and always trending but they are a little more delicate.

Butterfly Tooth Gems require a bit more intention when it comes to both application and aftercare. So if you want your Butterflies to actually last, not just look cute for a week, this post is for you.

Start With the Right Expectations

Before we dive into technique, let’s set the expectation.

There is no single trick that guarantees every Butterfly Tooth Gem will last forever. This design depends on a few different factors working together.

It comes down to:

• A thoughtful consultation

• Proper placement based on anatomy

• The right crystal choices

• And a client who understands how to care for it

Your job as the tech is to set the design up for success. Your client’s job is to take care of it once they leave your chair.

Now let’s get into how to do your part really well.

Choose Teeth That Work With the Design

Butterfly Tooth Gems usually span across two teeth and use Navette or Marquise crystals for the wings.

These crystals are around 4 mm tall, which sounds small but actually takes up a lot of space on a tooth.

Most teeth have a natural curve, and when you try to place a flat crystal across that curve, it does not always sit flush. This is especially true on teeth like canines.

Here are two ways to work with this instead of fighting it:

Opt for flatter teeth. Central and lateral incisors are your best friends here. They are flatter and give you more surface area for the design to sit properly.

Adjust your placement. If you do want to use a more curved tooth like a canine, try placing the wings more vertically instead of horizontally. This lets you work with the natural shape of the tooth instead of against it. The photo below highlights an example of wings that are angled more vertically to lay against the flattest portion of the canine.

Use Natural Spacing to Your Advantage

Gaps are your friend.

One of the biggest mistakes I see with Butterfly Tooth Gems is accidentally fusing two teeth together. Not only is that uncomfortable for the client, it is also incredibly unsafe.

Choosing two teeth with a slight natural space between them helps prevent this completely. It also allows the client to continue flossing normally without hitting the crystals.

If your client does not have natural spacing, you’ll need to create the spacing visually in your design. Make sure you leave a small gap between the two halves of the butterfly instead of trying to make them touch in the middle.

Trying to connect the wings across two teeth can lead to fusing, poor retention, and discomfort. A tiny bit of space keeps the design safe, functional, and much more comfortable for the client.

A small gap can make a big difference in both comfort and longevity.

Choose the Right Crystals for Each Client

Most Butterfly designs use Navette crystals paired with SS5 or SS6 rounds. But there is another option that I love for smaller teeth.

Marquise crystals are slightly slimmer and more delicate than Navettes. They are about 0.2 mm thinner, which can make a big difference when working on smaller smiles. I usually pair them with smaller rounds like SS4.

Here is how I typically decide:

• Larger teeth: Navette wings with larger rounds

• Smaller teeth: Marquise wings with smaller rounds

The client below is a great example of using Marquise and SS4 crystals to fit perfectly on a smaller lateral incisor.

And do not be afraid to have fun with it. Some of my favorite Butterfly sets have mixed colors for the wings and body. Custom designs always stand out more and feel more personal to the client.

If you want to be prepared for anything, it helps to keep both options in your inventory. You can find Navettes here, Marquise here, and round crystals in my Color Bundle.

Aftercare Matters More Than You Think

Butterfly Tooth Gems are not high maintenance, but they are not completely carefree either.

I always tell my clients to:

• Chew on the opposite side when possible

• Avoid very hard or sticky foods

• Be mindful of the area when brushing and flossing

With proper application and good aftercare, I have had clients keep their Butterfly designs for years. They just need a little extra love, and they are absolutely worth it.

Final Thoughts

Butterfly Tooth Gems are one of my favorite designs. They are eye catching, customizable, and always in style.

When you take the time to choose the right teeth, the right crystals, and guide your client through proper care, you set the design up to actually last. And that is what builds trust, repeat clients, and confidence in your work.

If you want to be fully prepared for Butterfly designs, I’ve put together a kit with my go to crystals and sizes that I personally use. You can find it here: Butterfly Kit.

If you ever need help choosing crystals or building out your inventory, I am always here. I cannot wait to see all the Butterfly Tooth Gems flying around out there.

Xoxo,
Katana